Wall Molding Trim
Add Wall Trim & Hooks
Learn How To Calculate Spacing
Disclosure: This site contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Clicking on links, and purchasing products, may result in the seller paying us compensation at no extra cost to you. Affiliate links are in green.
Blog: notes from the workroom & trails
Home Decor Craft Projects
Exterior Projects
Organizing Tips & Projects
No Company Closet!
Our Phoenix house had a HUGE, walk-in company closet. Oh, was I spoiled. Our tiny home in the Pacific Northwest has one very small closet at the end of the hall - away from the front door. Besides being tiny, I would not want to hang wet items in the closet.
The solution? Aleah (co-founder of this site) came up with the perfect remedy!
Take the small, boring wall next to the garage door and turn it into a beautifully trimmed out wall, complete with hooks. A wasted space is turned into a beautiful, useful space. In our small cottage, we cannot waste space! We can unload wet coats when we come into the house from the garage. A small basket collects wet shoes.
Added Benefit
The new trim sets off my beautiful painting by Arizona artist Linda Paul-Sontag. It was sort of lost on the wall before the rehab. Visit Linda’s website to see more of her beautiful work.
Before & After
I love the “new wall!” So much more function now. Our guests won’t have to look for a chair to hang their coats over.
We added this same molding and trim to a living room wall. You can see that later in the article.
Step By Step Instructions
Compute Spacing
1. Decide on number of sections
Our wall was small, so we decided on 3 sections. Now, you might not yet know how many sections you will need. This is what I did to estimate. If trim is 1.5” wide, and you want spacing to be approximately 9”, you can start with that. Your section width will most likely not be exactly 9”, but it is a good starting point. If your wall is 100”, divide that by 10.5”. 100 ÷ 10.25 = 9.5. So, using 9” as spacing, you would have approximately 9 sections. If you choose 9 sections, you will compute a spacing that is a bit more than 9.5”.
The point is, estimate the number of sections you wish to have. I think that on a large wall, approximately 10” - 11” is a nice section width (space between vertical trim pieces). For our small wall, we used 9” section width.
2. Choose Width Of Trim Pieces
Our baseboard is 3.5”. The molding on the side of the door is 2.5”. We decided to use 2.5” width for across the top of our trim area. It is wide enough to hold our new hooks. The baseboard is a bit wider, at 3.5”, which allows for a nice base. We didn’t want the entire area to appear “top heavy.”
The vertical trim pieces are 1.5”. They are narrow enough to not overwhelm the area, but still show up nicely. We used 4 vertical pieces: one for each end (next to door and next to open doorway), and two in between the ends.
So - for 3 sections, you will need 4 vertical trim pieces. Always add one board to the number of sections you will have.
The little shelf above the hooks is 1.5” wide.
NOTE: the vertical trim pieces are not as thick as the baseboard and top piece, so they are “inset” a bit. I like that look. It is just a personal preference.
3. Compute Spacing Of Vertical Trim Pieces
Put your math cap on!
This is where math comes in. I sew a LOT, and math is definitely used in sewing - just as it is in carpentry. You will see in my other posts that I often use my quilter’s square and large sewing ruler for room make-over projects.
For this part of the instructions, I will be referring to the diagram below.
A: the length of wall you are adding trim to
B: the distance BETWEEN vertical pieces
C: the distance from center to center of vertical pieces
D: the distance from the beginning of a space to the end of the next vertical trim piece
Example Wall
1. Measure the width of the vertical trim. Our trim was 1.5”.
2. Compute A. Measure up from the floor the distance you wish the top of the trim to come to. In our case, we chose 4 feet. Make a mark at that height. Make a few other marks at that height across the wall. Then, use a level to ensure the line is level. The board needs to be level - don’t just use the distance from floor up, because the floor might not be level.
Once the level line has been drawn, measure its length. In my example wall, the length, A, is 54” (my real wall was 33”, but I will use my example wall for these instructions).
3. Subtract the vertical wall trim width from the wall length.
54 - 1.5 = 52.5
4. Start Computing Vertical Trim Spacing.
To compute spacing between vertical trim pieces, divide that new length (52.5 in my sample) by the number of sections you want to have. My sample has 5 sections. Basically, you are removing the first trim piece on the left, and dividing the remainder of wall length by number of sections. I show each section as D in my diagram. There are 5 D sections across.
Compute D: 52.5 divided by 5 = 10.5” Write that number down.
Compute B: Subtract the width of trim (in my sample 1.5”) from D (in my case, 10.5)
10.5 - 1.5 = 9”
9” is the space BETWEEN my vertical trim pieces.
CHECK YOUR WORK!
Use a paper and pencil (or calculator) to check your work once you have all of your numbers. You need to be sure that your board widths, plus your spaces, will equal the length of your wall.
I have 6 boards, each 1.5”. 1.5 x 6 = 9”
I have 5 sections, each 9” wide. 5 x 9 = 45”
9” plus 45” = 54”, which is the length of my wall. Perfect!
5. Mark your wall for vertical trim placement.
My husband placed marks on the wall (I drew in red in my diagram) for centers of vertical trim pieces. Each red dot is spaced at the distance we computed for D. This makes sense, there is the 1/2 of a vertical board width, plus the 9” space, plus 1/2 of a vertical board width.
He placed the first vertical trim board, marked the center above that, then placed another mark every 10.5” across. In other words, each dot is 10.5” apart.
It’s actually easier to just measure section spacing from board to board (in this case, place board 1, then measure out 9” and place board 2), but these dots across the top are a back-up to be sure you don’t get “off” over distance.
Also, the dots tell you exactly where the board will be placed. Now, step back and look DOWN. Will your board run through an outlet or other obstacle? If so, you will need to change your number of sections and recompute everything.
In the image below, you can see that the trim is to the sides of the outlet. My first run with numbers would have put a piece of trim running right through the outlet - not acceptable. This photo was taken before caulking and touch-up painting was done.
What about an uneven amount?
Spacing doesn’t always come out to a nice, round number. What if you end up needing spaces to be 10.875”? That happened with our living room wall. At the end of this article, I cover what to do in that case. It just requires a bit more math. Don’t worry! It works out just fine.
Paint Trim Boards
I recommend sanding and painting all trim boards BEFORE installing them on the wall. It is much easier to reach the sides that need to be painted, plus you do not have to tape off the wall.
Use a good quality paint.
We chose Benjamin Moore Scuff-X interior latex paint with eggshell finish. It is more durable than standard wall paint. Coats and other items will be slapped against the wall, and I wanted the area to be durable and washable. The more durable the paint, the more washable it is. I don’t like a lot of shine, so I chose eggshell finish. It has a nice sheen without being shiny.
Color: OC-28 Collingwood
Place Top Board
Mark the board that will be your top horizontal trim just PAST the length you computed for “A” above. The saw blade has a tiny width. You need to cut just on the OUTSIDE of your mark, so your piece doesn’t end up a tiny bit too short.
Once the piece is cut, install it on the wall.
The third photo below shows the top trim piece in place; my husband was checking out the new hooks.
Tip: Use a drill to create holes first - so boards don’t split. Then, use a nail gun to nail the boards to the wall.
Cut Vertical Trim Pieces
To compute the length needed for the vertical trim pieces, we measured from the top of the baseboard to the bottom edge of the top trim piece that had just been installed.
Remember that floors may not be totally level, so each spot a board will go must be measured. Fortunately, our floor was level. All four vertical trim pieces were cut to the same length.
Tip: See “Tip” below under “Painting.” After doing this wall, I realized it is easier to use a roller on the wall BEFORE placing the vertical trim boards.
Add Top Shelf
The top piece is a “tiny shelf” that is 1.5” wide. That board is not quite as thick as the trim pieces. It is perfect for that finished look across the top. We considered leaving it off, but decided it added to the overall design.
Finish The Wall - Paint
1. Caulk as needed. I caulked around all boards. It gives a nice finish. Boards never lie flat against a wall. The small gaps look unprofessional in my opinion. I made quite a mess on myself due to forgetting to release the pressure trigger on the caulking gun. It’s a mistake that tends to only be made once :-)
2. Tape Off Baseboard. Patch and sand any areas that need it. We had a place on the doorway molding that needed a touch-up. After all painting was done, I went back and touched up both the new trim pieces and the door moldings.
3. Remove electric outlet covers. We painted our outlet cover with the same paint as we used on the trim, so it would blend in with the wall. I recommend using a coat of Gesso, or primer, first.
4. Paint. I used a roller and brush to paint the wall sections.
Painting Tip: After doing this wall, I realized that it would be easier to paint the wall FIRST. Touch up would still be needed, but it is much faster to roll an entire wall than it is to roll sections, then use a small brush to get close to trim pieces.
Caulking Tip: A caulking gun helps tremendously. Remember to release pressure after each run of caulk! Otherwise it keeps streaming out. I sometimes get as much caulk on me as I do on my project! I keep baby wipes handy!
Before & After Caulking
Just as in our shiplap installation, the caulking is necessary to finish off the project nicely. No wall is perfect, and small gaps are part of any construction process. Caulking creates a perfect fit and more finished look, in my opinion. Once caulking is done, it can be painted.
We also patched, sanded, and painted over nail holes.
Install Hooks
Kevin, engineer that he is, also levels wall hooks. I love that - crooked hooks would annoy me. We had 4 hooks, and he spaced them evenly across the wall trim in such a way that they also lined up nicely between vertical trim pieces.
He marked where each would go, then pre-drilled for the hanging brackets. The hooks themselves slipped over the brackets and were held in place with screws.
UNEVEN NUMBER! WHAT’S THE PLAN?
Walls are not always a measurement that works out perfectly for spacing things like trim. What if you end up with a very strange number, such as 9.43” for spacing between vertical trim boards? That was the case with our larger living room wall. Here is the math:
Wall length: 121.75”
Trim width: 1.5”
Number of sections: 11
121.75” - 1.5” = 120.25”
120.25” ÷ 11 = 10.93”
10.93” - 1.5” = 9.43”
So, the width of each section is 9.43”. You can’t measure 9.43” with a ruler. No problem! You just need to convert it to eighths or sixteenths of an inch. Good thing I do a LOT of sewing.
.43 x 8 = 3.44 inches, or just over 3/8”. So, 9.43” converts to very close to 9 3/8” - a number that can be measured with a ruler. My husband placed the first vertical trim piece, then spaced each one 9 3/8” across the wall. He had the dots on the wall that marked centers for each vertical trim piece, so if he got “off” a bit too much at any point he could adjust the spacing of a board. This never happened because it was such a tiny amount. Using 9 3/8” rather than 9 3.44/8” was fine over the length of our wall. With a longer wall, you would just adjust a board someplace where the eye didn’t see it - or adjust between a couple boards. If you were suddenly an inch off at the end of a wall, the eye might notice that.
End Of Wall
What about a wall that doesn’t end at a doorway or wall? We had that situation in our living room.
We worked it out just the same as we did with the little wall. We placed a vertical trim piece on each end, and computed everything in the same way.
When the end vertical trim was installed, it needed to be caulked, and the end of the top trim needed to painted on the raw, cut end.
It turned out great! The photo below shows the wall end before it was caulked and painted. I managed to get gray paint on the hall wall, so repainted that area when I finished off the trim.
More Fun Projects & Articles
I turned a fallen tree disaster into a beautiful evergreen bouquet for my front porch. Easy! Use holiday items from your stash.